Discard...Plz

by Greaveance on 21 December 2013

Main Deck (51 cards)

Sideboard (5 cards)

Instants (2)


Artifacts (1)

Submit a list of cards below to bulk import them all into your sideboard. Post one card per line using a format like "4x Birds of Paradise" or "1 Blaze", you can even enter just the card name by itself like "Wrath of God" for single cards.


Deck Description

I love the color black, discard is one of the first mechanics i mess with. these are cards that i lost and found and lost again so im working on putting it back in order

How to Play

Basically u make them discard.
U want to get a couple of upkeep cards in there so ur discarding or making them pay in some way for discarding. I really like late in the game to have shrieking affliction and paradox haze, really messes with them, also having kami of the crescent moon out with necrogen mist, have the constantly drawing so they can discard and lose more life. see fun

Deck Tags

  • Discard
  • return to hand
  • specter

Deck at a Glance

Social Stats

1
Like

This deck has been viewed 1,234 times.

Mana Curve

Mana Symbol Occurrence

0173000

Card Legality

  • Not Legal in Standard
  • Not Legal in Modern
  • Not Legal in Vintage
  • Not Legal in Legacy

Deck discussion for Discard...Plz

Any comments or tips would be greatly appreciated , Thanks :)

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Posted 21 December 2013 at 23:32

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ok you have shrieking affliction good. you need 4. lose megrim and get liliana's caress. I switched over, so glad i did. bottomless pit and necrogen mists are so cool. i want them! get duress and/or distress. one lets you take out a creature the other doesn't.
unsummon if you find yourself bouncing creatures more than anything else. if you are into bouncing creatures and you like ninjas, there is a blue ninja that bounces and another that allows you to draw. i love them. and they are super cheap.
echoing truth is amazing, it gets rid of tokens and counters, also echoing decay, check that out just as brutal. eff selesnya.
hypnotic specters get 4, get 4 ravenous rats. check out gnat miser if you want to go with making the opponent draw like crazy, miser reduces hand size. if you do go that route, why not howling mine (forced draw). if you go that far, crucible of worlds. (so you can play your lands from the grave).
overall advice, organize and keep costs down. keep some expensive casting stuff down to 4 to 6 no more than 8 spells (if you have no mana ramp). expensive is 4 or more CMC. you want to be getting things going pretty fast and consistent. if you can bounce creatures pretty regular than you can switch up who your attackers are but remember to watch casting costs and frequency of occurrence.
when you are looking at the deck stats make sure land is 33.3% of your deck (again without mana ramps).
have fun!!!!

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Posted 22 December 2013 at 14:22

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Awesome thanks for the advice, yeah i diffidently need to switch to liliana's caress, that has to come out quicker. Yeah i do like ninjas i just didnt want to put to many in there. Yeah i like Echoing decay too. Yeah i know i should have 4 hypnotic specters i just thought id have 4 different ones since they basically have all the same abilities. i saw miser too gona get me sum of him. i want to get painful quandary, and more stuff like that so i can hurt them more for having no cards, i feel like i could be getting more if i went there. Again thanks for the help ive always wanted this deck to do better

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Posted 23 December 2013 at 16:39

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Painful quandary is a good choice. i forgot about that one. your idea of having different specters is still a sound theory. i have done it. if you find it runs better that way then keep on with it. i just look at the mana costs and structure more mathematically but sometimes that doesn't work either so you go with what works and what feels right.

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Posted 23 December 2013 at 17:26

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i feel you on that man, but was just curious at what point should mathematics take over. to make sure everything is mana even or flows correctly

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Posted 24 December 2013 at 01:23

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well land should be 1/3 or 33.3% almost always. 4 to 8 one drops, 4-8 two drops, 4-6 three drops, and 3-6 above that. unless mana ramps are considered. mana ramps to be truly considered a 'ramp' must have a 1:1 ratio, one cost for one mana. 0:1 are monetarily expensive and usually banned. or 1:3 that usually involve another cost like sacking or waiting a turn, etc. are to be considered more than or equal to a 1:1 ratio. I usually put them at = to. enough of mana ramps.
The only exception to that is this game is a base 4 math system, as opposed to the way we tell time base 60 or the measurement system not practiced in USA, base 10. Base 4, 4 cards of the same name except basic lands. So work with spells first and multiply by .333 and you get the lands you need. Spells should get to about 40 cards. good start, experince can be your teacher after a while. 45 cards is good depending on mana costs and ramp factors.

Mana ramps can reduce the number of lands by a for 2:1 ratio for every mana ramp card lose a land and add a spell. only do this 4 to 8 times. I would actually stop at maximum of 6. You get land screwed sometimes, but 8 with a draw engine, scry or search. Those can be important. Fore every one of those, (draw, search, scry) you can use the same ration 1:2 for every one of those add something else. again stop at about 6. 4-8 is where you want to be.

If you have done this wrong less than 33.3% is land and and almost half you deck is spent not killing your opponent. A good reanimator deck can do this or a biovisionary deck for that matter, and win. enough on that for now.

when calculating spells, lets look at damage, no matter who/what does it. the old rule of MTG should be remembered. 1 for 3. one mana 3 life or 3 damage or 3 mana, etc (based of the 5 colors) if you notice the guilds blend the still base themselves of this in the form 2 for 6 (most time). This is the 'cost vs. effect' ratio. you want to spend around that on the effect. so your low casting cost must adhere to this principle. your 2 and 3 drops are usually you cumulative effect damage multipliers. thy should keep this in mind but they can waver a little in favor of brutality. 4 or more casting costs are your finishing move. they are like the fluff or icing on a cake or the fatality in Mortal Kombat. pretty to look at, but not crucial. The large drops are no less important as they will demoralize an opponent that know of its existence and is relatively sure of its frequency. Fear of seeing it and freaking out when they see it. Let's talk on frequency., first.

Play sets are very important but, when are they not. Simic's evolution (G/B) decks and Golgari's (G/B), lotleth trolls and scavenge are so sick but there is too much stuff that works too well. I abandon the base 4 mathematic system. in favor of a base 3 system. all other rules apply. this increases frequency of occurrence(F). if everything is base 4 frequency in a 60 card deck is at least once per game, (7 in the open and about 5 turns before death). so (F)is about every 9-12 cards. base 3 puts you at 6-15(F) cards but this can have deadly pitfalls. your spells better work together really well you will either get all of them or none of them. There better be some complimentary action/reaction, cause/effect harmony happening. That is why Simic and Golgari and to a lesser extent Dimir works so well. Dimir tends to be evil in its own right and the effects are just so similar it can't help but work together. White, blue and red need consistency for their effects to work properly as with the the guilds not mentioned.

Ockams's razor principle (and the name of one of my decks): all things being equal the simplest answer is usually the correct one. Simple plan of attack use only spells that move you in that direction.
Thoughts on the art of war: keep moving, always be doing something, if you aren't doing something (blue control) make them think you can't do anything (lie to them about one more mana and they are screwed, wait for attack and counter/control), if your enemy counters/controls make him spend his spells on lesser things and keep an eye on his land. demoralize your opponent and strip them of resources. If you are going to attack forget defenses, if you wish to defend don't worry about attacking. If your opponent NOT HIS DECK uses a specific strategy find ways to weaken him. People tend to go with what works for them, just like in real fights. If you wish to counter and confuse, destroy his deck. If an enemy uses the battlefield, deny him that. Take out his land or make it impossible to attack you. For non tournament play, you are playing the player, not his deck. Know thy enemy.

Side board are important, I'm sure you knew this. Think of it as alternates for your theory. Don't think of it as bench warmers. Never use the side board as a way to switch hitters on a differing opponent. Think of it as 'this might work but this does the same thing' not sure which is better, as some like to do use one of each to make your base 4, or 2 of each and 2 pairs each (base 4). Play a few hands usually 4 to 6 each against varying attacks and deck styles. The sideboard is also there if you are waiting to purchase the cards that you need the think of it as substitutes until the good players arrive.
My personal thoughts on the side board, if you truly need it, your deck sucks. A good running attack or well devised plan will never need to be alternated. Once complete there should be no deviation. Side boards are for the construction phase only. That is just me speaking there.

So short answer, math is always involved as well as history and military history and theory as well as a little bit of psychology. Get an idea, put it together and like my music teachers told me, practice, practice, practice.

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Posted 24 December 2013 at 14:26

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Posted 24 December 2013 at 14:27

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Posted 24 December 2013 at 14:28

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